Tudor

Wristwatches from Tudor are highly coveted among watch enthusiasts. This is true of both their current and vintage models. Since its founding, Tudor's primary focus has been on high-quality craftsmanship and precision movements. They stepped out of fellow subsidiary Rolex's shadow long ago and are creating luxury watches at a level on par with the world's most famous watch manufacturers. Tudor's most popular collections include the Black Bay, Pelagos, North Flag, and Heritage Chrono Blue.

The highlight of the current portfolio is the Black Bay collection, to which Tudor regularly adds new models. The Black Bay Fifty-Eight is a 39-mm version of the standard Black Bay, which measures 41 mm across. In the spring of 2024, Tudor introduced the Black Bay Fifty-Eight GMT, a version of the watch with a second time zone that many fans of the brand have been waiting for. If a case diameter of 39 mm is still too large for you, you can opt for the 37-mm Black Bay Fifty-Four.

The Heritage Chrono collection contains a selection of distinctive men's chronographs. The very first model won the "Petite Aiguille" ("little hand") prize at the 2017 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève. This column-wheel chronograph is powered by in-house caliber that Tudor developed in collaboration with Breitling and boasts a 70-hour power reserve.

Tudor now uses in-house calibers in almost all of their watches, often accompanied by chronometer certification from the COSC. Indeed, select movements have even earned the METAS seal as Master Chronometers since 2021. The Swiss manufacturer also offers a wide range of case materials, including stainless steel, gold, titanium, bronze, and silver.

When considering Tudor, it's also worth looking at their collectible neo-vintage models like the Submariner Snowflake. This timepiece has ridden the wave of success created by various Rolex Submariner watches, and prices for well-maintained examples have increased significantly in recent years.

Diving watches enjoy widespread popularity. Models that combine retro looks with state-of-the-art technology are especially sought after. Some of the industry's most popular retro diving watches belong to the Black Bay line, which premiered in 2012 and has since grown by several models.

Three-Hand Black Bay Watches

Water-resistant to 200 m (20 bar, 656 ft), the Black Bay is modeled after early Submariner models from the 1950s. This explains its large crown, lack of a crown protector, and domed crystal. Tudor initially equipped the Black Bay with the ETA caliber 2824.

Watches from 2012 with a 41-mm case and an ETA movement are especially popular and can make sound investments. The Black Bay ref. 79220N with its black bezel demands an investment of at least 5,000 USD. For comparison, a brand new Black Bay ref. 79230N from 2017 with the in-house caliber MT5612 costs roughly 3,800 USD.

At Watches and Wonders 2024, Tudor introduced a revamped version of the Black Bay with a burgundy aluminum bezel. At just under 13 mm, it is slightly thinner than its predecessors and powered by the caliber MT5602-U. The crowning jewel of this movement is that it's Master Chronometer-certified by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS), which means it's especially accurate as well as anti-magnetic. You can find this timepiece under the reference number M7941A1A0RU-0003 for approximately 4,500 USD.

At Watches and Wonders 2024, Tudor presented a new Black Bay model, which is available on three different straps. The dial and bezel are black, while the hands and indices have a silver look, making this watch – along with the blue version – the only Black Bay available in a monochrome color scheme. As in the Black Bay with burgundy bezel presented in 2023, this version also features the METAS-certified caliber MT5602-U. The timepiece changes hands for roughly 5,300 USD on the classic Oyster bracelet. The version with a Jubilee bracelet will set you back about the same amount, while the version with a rubber strap costs around 4,700 USD.

Black Bay Dark and S&G

If you prefer all-black watches, you should take a look at the Black Bay Dark. Its 41-mm stainless steel case and bracelet are coated black. The luminous hands and hour markers make for a stark contrast and offer excellent readability regardless of lighting conditions. The white minute markers and the bezel's minute scale also stand out against the black background. An unworn Black Bay Dark will set you back about 4,100 USD when new.

The two-tone Black Bay S&G is also popular and features in many promotional photos with retired English soccer star David Beckham. As a style icon, Beckham is the perfect brand ambassador for Tudor. The stainless steel Black Bay S&G is available with a two-tone metal bracelet or leather strap. Like the Black Bay Steel, the in-house movement MT5612 with a date display powers these watches. Set aside around 4,900 USD for a new specimen with a stainless steel and gold bracelet. You can save around 800 USD by opting for a leather strap instead.

Black Bay With a Second Time Zone

If you're looking for a Black Bay S&G with a GMT function, check out ref. M79833MN-0001. The Tudor caliber MT5652 (COSC) with a power reserve of 70 hours sets the pace in this watch. The timepiece is fitted with a two-tone bracelet made of steel and gold and costs around 5,300 USD new. Variants on a leather or synthetic bracelet are a few hundred dollars cheaper.

Tudor also offers several stainless steel versions of the Black Bay with GMT function, which can be purchased with a black or white dial. All versions share a blue and red "Pepsi" style bezel and are powered by the in-house caliber MT5652. Ref. M79830RB-0001 has a black dial and comes with an Oyster bracelet. The price for an unworn model is around 4,000 USD.

41-mm Ceramic Black Bay

Ceramic watches are a trend Tudor have fully embraced. In 2021, the manufacturer announced the Black Bay Ceramic (ref. 79210CNU), a new version of the 41-mm Black Bay with a black ceramic case.

Another new feature is the caliber MT5602-1U, which the independent Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS) has certified as a Master Chronometer. This black movement boasts a 70-hour power reserve and a silicon hairspring. What's more, it can resist magnetic fields of up to 15,000 gauss and is chronometer-certified.

A black dial and bezel enhance this model's sleek look, and a black leather strap completes the package. As for the price, you can call this watch your own for roughly 4,500 USD new.

As many potential buyers liked the design of the Black Bay but found the case size of 41 mm too large, Tudor introduced the Black Bay Fifty-Eight in 2018. With a case diameter of 39 mm and a lower overall height, this watch is now ideally suited to almost any wrist.

It all started with the Black Bay Fifty-Eight with the reference number M79030N. Thanks to its shrunken size and gilt dial with gold indices, snowflake hands and minute track, it is reminiscent of classic diving watches from the 1950s like no other Black Bay before it. Inside, the COSC-certified Tudor manufacture caliber MT5402 with a power reserve of 70 hours sets the pace. The Black Bay Fifty-Eight is available on a stainless steel bracelet, a leather strap or a synthetic NATO strap.

As of May 2024, the steel bracelet version changed hands on Chrono24 for roughly 3,800 USD.

About the Black Bay Fifty-Eight Navy Blue

The Black Bay Fifty-Eight Navy Blue presented in 2020 is reminiscent of Tudor Snowflake Submariners from the 1960s and 70s. Like the black version of the Black Bay Fifty-Eight, the Navy Blue has a 39-mm stainless steel case water-resistant to 200 m (20 bar, 656 ft). In contrast to the black version, however, the dial and aluminium bezel of the Navy Blue are blue. The watch is also powered by the Tudor in-house caliber MT5402.

The Black Bay Fifty-Eight Navy Blue is available with either a stainless steel bracelet or blue synthetic strap. The former model (ref. 79030B) costs around 3,700 USD in mint condition.

Black Bay Fifty-Eight in Silver & Gold

In spring 2021, Tudor presented two new Black Bay Fifty-Eights in precious metals. The first was the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 (ref. M79010SG-0001) in sterling silver. This model is also the first Black Bay that Tudor fitted with a transparent sapphire crystal case back. Thanks to this feature, you can watch the in-house caliber MT5400 at work inside.

Like the rest of the Black Bay series, the 925 is water-resistant to 200 m (20 bar, 656 ft). Tudor fits this timepiece with a taupe dial and bezel and mounts it on a matching textile or leather strap. A mint-condition model will set you back about 4,100 USD.

If you like the look of the Black Bay Fifty-Eight but wish it came in gold, look no further than the Fifty-Eight 18K (ref. M79018V-0001). Its 39-mm case is made of 18-karat yellow gold, and a completely satin finish gives this timepiece an unstated feel. Similar to the Black Bay 925, the 18K has a sapphire crystal case back. The dial and aluminum bezel are green with gold accents on the hands, indices, and diving scale.

You can buy the watch in mint condition on a leather or textile strap for around 13,600 USD. Since 2024, the watch has also been available on a matching 18-karat gold Oyster bracelet. Be prepared to spend at least 32,100 USD, according to the list price; due to limited availability, dealers are sure to charge you more.

New in 2024: Black Bay Fifty-Eight GMT

Tudor presented the Black Bay Fifty-Eight GMT at Watches and Wonders 2024. Like the three-hand models, the new GMT version has a case diameter of 39 mm and is water-resistant to 200 m (20 bar, 656 ft). For the color scheme, Tudor opted for a gilt dial with gold indices and hands. The 24-hour bezel is in the color combination of black and red, reminiscent of the famous "Coke" bezel of the Rolex GMT-Master.

The Black Bay Fifty-Eight GMT is powered by the in-house caliber MT5450-U, which is COSC and METAS-certified and offers a power reserve of 65 hours.

The watch is available on an Oyster bracelet (ref. M7939G1A0NRU-0001) or a rubber strap. As of May 2024, there were no listings for the Black Bay Fifty-Eight GMT on Chrono24. The official list price for the steel bracelet version is 4,600 USD, while the version on a rubber strap is listed by Tudor for 4,400 USD.

If you're looking for a Black Bay with a GMT function but don't like the eye-catching play of colors of the Black Bay Fifty-Eight GMT, you should take a look at the Black Bay Pro, which also measures 39 mm but is slightly thicker. The bezel is made of brushed steel and features a black 24-hour scale. The orange GMT hand, which is reminiscent of the Rolex Explorer II 1655, aka "orange hand" variant, is striking. The Black Bay Pro is powered by the COSC-certified caliber MT5652 and available on a stainless steel bracelet (ref. M79470-0001) for around 3,800 USD in mint condition. Variants on a textile or hybrid strap made of rubber and leather are slightly cheaper.

At Watches and Wonders 2023, Tudor took the opportunity to announce the addition of a new model to their Black Bay collection. Pulling inspiration from the first Tudor diving watch from 1954, the Black Bay Fifty-Four's most notable feature is its modest diameter of 37 mm. At 11.2 mm thick, the watch is also significantly thinner than other Black Bay models. The Black Bay Fifty-Four features a black dial and black aluminum bezel inlay. The bezel's hash marks are at five-minute intervals, just like the original. The lollipop second hand is also taken directly from the 1950 model.

In the interior of the watch, Tudor uses state-of-the-art technology. The automatic caliber MT5400 is chronometer-certified and offers a power reserve of 70 hours.

Expect to pay shell out about 4,300 USD for this stainless steel watch on a three-piece link bracelet (ref. M79000N-0001). The version on the rubber strap costs about 200 USD less.

The Extraordinary Black Bay P01

Those with more extravagant tastes may enjoy the Heritage Black Bay P01. This isn't your average wristwatch. Its design comes from a diving watch prototype Tudor developed for the U.S. Navy in the 1960s. However, the public didn't get their first glimpse of this once-secret watch until the 2019 release of its remake, the P01. Defining details include a crown at 4 o'clock and bulging lugs with clamps for locking the bezel in place – a feature unique to this timepiece alone.

At 42 mm in diameter, this watch is also the largest three-hand Black Bay model. You can find mint-condition models on Chrono24 for roughly 3,700 USD.

Black Bay 31, 36, 39, and 41 With No Diving Bezel

Tudor also offers versions without diving bezels in the form of the Black Bay 31, 36, 39, and 41. As their names reveal, these timepieces are 31, 36, 39, and 41 mm in diameter, respectively. In addition to stainless steel watches with a blue, black, or champagne dial, the brand also produces two-tone models known as the Black Bay S&G. These variants are available with a gold or black dial. No matter which version you choose, it will have a polished bezel similar to that of the Rolex Explorer.

Tudor has been powering these watches with in-house calibers since 2023. The movements are certified by the Swiss Chronometer Control Center (COSC) and have a power reserve of 70 hours. One exception is the movement in the Black Bay 31, which only has a power reserve of 50 hours on account of its smaller size.

Prices for the Tudor Black Bay models without diving bezels range from around 2,600 USD for older stainless steel models with ETA calibers to roughly 6,500 USD for two-tone watches with in-house calibers and diamond-set bezels.

Black Bay Chrono With Stopwatch Function

Black Bay Heritage Chronographs are tremendously popular in the watch community thanks to their stylish retro design. All models in the line share a tachymeter scale that allows the wearer to measure speed and distance. The dial features a small seconds subdial at 9 o'clock and a 45-minute chronograph counter directly opposite at 3. The Black Bay Chrono also features a date display at 6. Dot indices dominate as hour markers, interrupted only by a triangle at the top of the hour. The timepieces are powered by the in-house caliber MT5813 and thus offer a 70-hour power reserve.

The first generation Tudor Black Bay Chrono with a black dial and stainless steel bezel (ref. 79350) with a steel bracelet change hands for roughly 4,900 USD. You can find the follow-up version with a panda or reverse panda dial and slightly thinner case on a stainless steel bracelet for approximately 5,100 (ref. 79360N-0001) or 4,800 USD (ref. 79360N-0002). You can save a few hundred dollars if you choose one of the models on a leather or textile strap instead.

Two interesting variants of the retro chronographs are the Black Bay Chrono Dark and S&G models. Tudor launched the former for the 2019 Rugby World Cup in honor of the New Zealand All Blacks rugby team. The completely black chronograph is currently limited to 1,181 pieces. Prices for an unworn specimen in early 2024 came in at around 9,300 USD – a significant increase from the original list price of 5,450 USD.

The Black Bay Chrono S&G is a two-tone watch that combines stainless steel and yellow gold for a sporty-elegant look. The watches change hands on Chrono24 for between roughly 6,000 and 6,600 USD, depending on the version.

The name Heritage Ranger makes it clear that this model is inspired by a historic watch – namely the Oyster Prince Ranger from the 1960s. The new Ranger's simple design is very similar to its historic predecessor, especially its dial. Arabic numerals are located at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o'clock, while indices are used for the other hour markers. The arrow-shaped hour hand and the skinny second hand with a luminous rectangular box on its final third bring to mind the original model from the 1960s. Rolex aficionados will notice similarities to the Rolex Explorer, which should come as no surprise since Tudor – a Rolex sister company – uses numerous Rolex components. This includes the Oyster case, which explains the original watch's name: Oyster Prince Ranger.

The first generation of the Tudor Heritage Ranger ref. 79910 comes in a 41-mm stainless steel case. The 39-mm ref. 79950 from 2022 is much closer to the original from the 1960s. You can choose between a three-link stainless steel bracelet, brown leather strap, or fabric strap.

The 41-mm version is powered by the ETA caliber 2824, while the smaller 39-mm watch is powered by Tudor's MT5402 movement.

Both the larger and smaller Tudor Heritage Rangers sell for between 2,800 and 3,200 USD, depending on which wristband you choose to pair your new watch with.

Tudor tool watches endeavor to conceal scientific instruments in a modern facade. The brand's tool watches include the North Flag and the Pelagos, which nowadays are fitted with in-house movements and regarded as particularly robust and reliable. The Pelagos diving watch is made of light and durable titanium and is water-resistant to 500 m (50 bar, 1,640 ft).

Thanks to the helium escape valve, the Pelagos is also suitable for professional saturation diving. The patented folding clasp on the titanium bracelet is ideal for divers, since it automatically adjusts the bracelet's length to the size of the wetsuit. When the pressure increases underwater, the wetsuit is compressed, and the band shortens. As pressure is released, the suit expands, and the band automatically lengthens.

The Tudor diving watch is available with a black dial and bezel or a blue dial and bezel. The crown of the LHD model ("Left Hand Drive") is on the left side and is geared toward left-handed customers who like to wear their watches on their right wrists.

In November 2021, Tudor introduced the Pelagos FXD (ref. M25707B/21-0001) in titanium, a new take on the beloved tool watch. This timepiece is actually the result of a two-year collaboration between Tudor and the French Navy's combat swimmer unit "Hubert." Like the black Pelagos, the FXD is 42 mm in diameter. However, unlike its sister model, its case and lugs are all from a single block of metal, making it nearly impossible to lose the watch while on an underwater mission. This construction is called "fixed lugs" and is where the term "FXD" comes from.

The Pelagos 39 joined the collection in 2022. Visually, it is almost identical to its sibling models, but has a case size of 39 mm. It is water-resistant to 200 m (20 bar, 656 ft) and does not have a helium escape valve.

Depending on the variant, plan to spend between 4,300 and 6,300 USD on a Tudor Pelagos in mint condition.

Pelagos Chronograph

Tudor offers two Pelagos models with a chronograph function. The case of both versions is made of black carbon and has a diameter of 43 mm. The chronograph is water-resistant to 200 m (20 bar, 656 ft). The Tudor in-house caliber MT 5813 sets the pace in both watches. The COSC-certified movement has a power reserve of around 70 hours when fully wound. Along with the chronograph function with subdials at 3 and 9 o'clock, the caliber has a date display at 9.

Ref. M25807KN-0001 has a blue dial with red accents on the subdials and stop-seconds hand, and is worn on a blue textile strap. As of spring 2024, this watch changed hands on Chrono24 for roughly 5,200 USD.

In 2024, Tudor introduced a technically identical model with the reference number M25827KN-0001. This watch has a black dial with red accents on the subdials and outer edge of the dial. A black textile strap holds the Pelagos on the wrist.

As of May 2024, there were still no listings for this watch on Chrono24. Tudor's official MSRP is 5,275 USD.

Simple and Reliable: The Tudor North Flag

The understated North Flag is inspired by the reliability of Tudor watches worn during the British North Greenland Expedition in the 1950s. The 40-mm stainless steel case is entirely satin-brushed and has an angular design, emphasizing its scientific nature. The double bezel made of stainless steel and ceramic integrates seamlessly with the design of this functional watch. The in-house movement MT5621 is chronometer-certified, displays the date at 3 o'clock, and features a power reserve display at 9.

An as-new North Flag on a rubber strap (ref. 91210N) will set you back about 3,800 USD. Pairing the model with a stainless steel bracelet will raise prices to around 4,700 USD.

Along with numerous retro and sports watches, Tudor also offers classically elegant women's and men's timepieces that go especially well with a business suit or evening wear. The Style collection is made up of simple three-hand watches with designs reminiscent of traditional wristwatches from the 1950s through the 1970s. A majority of the watches are made of stainless steel, though there are also two-tone variants in stainless steel and yellow gold. For the bands, Tudor utilizes leather, stainless steel, and a combination of steel and gold in the two-tone version. The cases range from 28 to 41 mm in diameter, meaning there's something for every wrist. Medium-sized models between 34 and 38 mm make fantastic unisex watches. You can purchase a stainless steel Tudor Style in mint condition with a steel bracelet for as little as 1,700 USD. If you have your eye on a new two-tone model with a metal bracelet, you should set aside around 2,600 USD.

Tudor sells luxurious women's watches in their Glamour line. Top models boast diamond-encrusted bezels. The 36-mm two-tone edition demands an investment of about 3,900 USD. Men's models include the 39-mm Date-Day (ref. M56000) with a day display at 12 o'clock, reminiscent of the Rolex Day-Date. This timepiece will set you back about 1,700 USD new. The 42-mm Double Date features a large date display below 12 o'clock and a small seconds dial at 6. This model costs approximately 2,800 USD.

Tudor's history dates back to 1926. Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf was also the man behind this Geneva-based company. From the beginning, Wilsdorf's goal was to produce reliable watches that were more affordable than comparable Rolex models. To achieve this, original Rolex parts such as the Oyster case or bracelet were used for many years. For their calibers, Tudor relied on cheaper alternatives from movement manufacturers such as ETA, which still supplies movements to Tudor today. Since 2015, however, Tudor has also been using calibers developed in-house and manufactured in the production halls of Geneva.

Tudor's name is taken from the eponymous royal family, which sat on the English throne from 1485 to 1603. The logo is the Tudor rose from the family crest; the framing shield is a later addition. Together they symbolize the unity of strength and aesthetics. Today, the shield and the inscription "Tudor Geneve" embellish the dials of every watch.