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Chrono24 Magazine: News and Perspectives From the Watch Industry
Limited Edition Watches: A Spotlight on the Breitling Navitimer 806 1959 Re-Edition
When considering which limited edition watch I wanted to cover in this article, I thought of one of the most significant relaunches: the illustrious 41 mm Breitling Navitimer 806 from 1959, using the Venus 178 manual-wind chronograph movement.
Five Cheaper (and Better) Alternatives to the Rolex Daytona
With prices north of $20,000 for a pre-owned specimen, the Rolex Daytona has become unattainable for most watch enthusiasts. The good news is that the following five chronographs are more affordable and in some cases even a little better than the legendary Rolex.
Breitling: Indestructible Watches Since 1884
Swiss luxury watch manufacturer Breitling is world-renowned for pilot's watches and chronographs like the Navitimer. Top models come with in-house calibers with a split-seconds function, have a tourbillon, or are water-resistant to 3,000 meters.
This page contains information about:
- A Breitling for Every Occasion
- Breitling Models: An Overview
- About Breitling Men's Watches
- About Breitling Women's Watches
- The Breitling Navitimer in Detail
- Breitling Chronomat Pilot's Watch
- Breitling Super AVI and Aviator 8
- Prices: Breitling Avenger
- About the Breitling Superocean
- Breitling Superocean Heritage
- About the Breitling Endurance Pro
- Breitling Premier Dress Watch
- About Breitling for Bentley
- The Affordable Breitling Colt
- What does a Breitling cost?
- Prices at a Glance: Breitling Watches
Breitling Watches for Every Occasion
Among watch lovers, Breitling is one of the most popular luxury watch manufacturers in the world. The traditional manufacturer has a rich history dating back to 1884 and is known for producing robust, functional timepieces with an idiosyncratic design. The brand is considered a specialist when it comes to chronographs and pilot's watches.
The collection nevertheless includes numerous professional diving watches, some of which are water-resistant to 3,000 m (300 bar, 9,843 ft), as well as classic, elegant timepieces featuring a small seconds, a day-date display, or a tourbillon. Breitling also offers many models in special editions for women. These models usually have smaller cases and delicate refinements such as precious gems or mother-of-pearl dials.
Breitling manufactures the majority of its watches in its own workshops in Switzerland's "watchmaking capital," La Chaux-de-Fonds. A certain percentage of their timepieces, however, are made in Grenchen, in the canton of Solothurn, where Breitling has its headquarters. Since 2002, Breitling has had all its watches chronometer-certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). For the purposes of certification, the production location is irrelevant, as is the watch's movement type, be it an in-house caliber, ETA ETA caliber, or quartz caliber.
For many years, Breitling was one of the few Swiss watch manufacturers to maintain their independence. In 2017, however, the British financial investment firm CVC took an 80% stake in Breitling's shares; a year later, Breitling belonged completely to CVC. When the investor stepped in, George Kern, former head of the watch division of luxury goods group Richemont, took over as CEO. Since 2022, the Swiss asset management company Partners Group has held the majority of shares in Breitling.
An Overview of Breitling Models
For many watch enthusiasts, Breitling is synonymous with pilot's watches. And indeed, the manufacturer has a long tradition of making timepieces for pilots, and has close ties to aviation, having maintained its own aerobatic team for a number of years. It's, therefore, no surprise that the focus on pilot watches in Breitling's catalog is significant. Two particularly important product pillars are the Navitimer and Chronomat collections, which have been part of the Breitling portfolio since the 1940s. The Super AVI and Aviator 8 series also exude retro pilot's watch flair. Watches in the Avenger collection, on the other hand, stand out thanks to their emphatically modern, masculine designs.
Breitling's diving watches also have an excellent reputation. Noteworthy diving watch collections include the Superocean and Superocean Heritage lines. If you're looking for a robust and precise timepiece for outdoor activities, be sure to check out the brand's Endurance Pro collection.
The Premier collection is home to Breiling's most elegant timepieces. This is where you'll also find watches with complications like tourbillons and complete calendars. By contrast, chronographs in the Top Time line shine with sporty, elegant retro charm.
The Most Important Breitling Models at a Glance
- Navitimer – classic pilot's watch with slide rule bezel
- Chronomat – pilot's chronograph in the style of the 1980s
- Superocean – professional diver with a modern look
- Superocean Heritage – diving watch with retro flair
- Avenger – robust pilot's watch with a modern design
- Endurance Pro – outdoor watch with precise “SuperQuartz” caliber
- Top Time – racing chronograph with a retro look
- Premier – elegant dress watch with complications like a moon phase, tourbillon, and complete calendar
- Colt – Breitling's entry-level watch with quartz or automatic caliber
- Breitling for Bentley – special editions in honor of automobile manufacturer Bentley
About Breitling Men's Watches
Most of the watches in the Breitling catalog are aimed at men. Masculine models like the Super Avenger or Chronomat are particular popular and have an enormous presence on the wrist, thanks to their functional tool watch designs and diameters up to 50 mm. Timepieces in the Navitimer and Colt collections also have a lot of fans; the Navitimer is a watch world icon, and the Colt offers the Breitling aesthetic at a relatively affordable price.
The distinctive design of Breitling's men's watches are very popular with celebrities. Hollywood stars like John Travolta, Brad Pitt, Tom Cruise, Adam Driver, and Jerry Seinfeld enjoy wearing Breitling watches, as do Norwegian soccer star Erling Haaland, multiple Ironman World Champion Jan Frodeno, and survival expert Bear Grylls (to name a few).
Most Popular Men's Watches From Breitling
- Navitimer
- Chronomat
- Colt
- Super Avenger
- Superocean Heritage
About Breitling Women's Watches
Breitling is a great choice for women as well. In almost all collections, the manufacturer offers variants of its timepieces specially adapted to appeal to women. These models usually have a smaller case size, making them more suitable for slender wrists. The women's watches also often differ from the men's watches in terms of color design. White, pastel shades, or mother-of-pearl dominate the dials, and the bracelets are normally much more colorful than those of their larger counterparts. Breitling often gives its women's watches a touch of refinement by adding diamonds to the bezel or dial.
Especially popular women's watches from Breitling include the Superocean Heritage '57 Pastel Paradise, Navitimer Automatic 35, and Superocean Automatic 36.
Popular Women's Watches From Breitling
- Super Chronomat Automatic 38
- Navitimer Automatic 35
- Superocean Automatic 36
- Superocean Heritage '57 Pastel Paradise
The Navitimer is without a doubt the most famous watch in the Breitling catalog. It premiered in 1952 and has more or less maintained its look ever since. The most distinctive feature of the Navitimer is its slide rule bezel, which can be used to make complex calculations such as the rate of accent or descent, or fuel consumption – all completely analog, and without the help of a computer.
Most Navitimer models come with a chronograph function, but other complications are also available. The Montbrillant line, for example, features timepieces with perpetual calendars and moon phase displays. The Navitimer Cosmonaute displays the time on a 24-hour dial, rather than the standard 12. For a number of years now, Breitling has also offered Navitimer editions with three hands.
More modern and current models are powered by in-house calibers like the Breitling B01. Older Breitling watches are predominantly fitted with refined ETA calibers.
Features at a Glance – The Breitling Navitimer
- Pilot's watch with cult status
- Slide rule bezel
- Available in sizes from 35 to 46 mm
- Three-hand and chronograph models available
- Chronometer-certified in-house caliber or ETA movement
- Montbrillant collection featuring complications like a moon phase or perpetual calendar
- Available in stainless steel, gold, or two-tone editions
Breitling Chronomat Pilot's Watch
The Chronomat collection, like the Navitimer, has a long, storied history. The first model made its debut in the 1940s. Even then, the watch featured the slide rule bezel that gave it its name, an amalgam of "chronograph" and "mathematics."
It was only in 1984 that Breitling introduced the Chronomat as we know it today. The watch's striking design, with its four bezel rider tabs, characteristic onion crown, and Rouleaux bracelet, is the result of a cooperation with the pilots of the Frecce Tricolori national aerobatic team.
Watches in the Chronomat collection have traditionally been chronographs; however, Breitling expanded the selection some time ago to include three-hand and GMT models. The collection is also home to a line of women's watches, some of which are set with diamonds.
Features at a Glance – The Breitling Chronomat
- Available in sizes from 32 to 44 mm
- Distinctive bezel rider tabs and onion crown
- Three-hand, chronograph, and GMT models available
- Chronometer-certified in-house caliber or ETA movement
- Available in stainless steel, gold, or two-tone editions
- Diamond-set women's watches
Breitling Super AVI and Aviator 8
Breitling has two other collections in its catalog that feature pilot's watches with a design language dating back to Breitling models from the 1950s and 60s, namely the Super AVI and Aviator 8 lines. While the Super AVI collection is exclusively comprised of chronographs, the Aviator 8 collection offers a selection of different chronographs and three-hand models.
The timepieces are powered almost exclusively by modern in-house calibers that Breitling modifies with additional complications like date-date displays and GMT functions.
Features at a Glance – The Breitling Super AVI and Aviator 8
- Pilot's watches with a 1950/60s retro look
- Available in sizes from 41 to 46 mm
- Available in stainless steel or gold editions
- Chronometer-certified in-house caliber or ETA movement
Breitling Avenger – The Robust All-Rounder
Anyone looking for a robust and functional pilot's watch with a modern design is bound to find something exciting in Breitling's Avenger collection. With its bezel rider tabs and knurled crown, the Avenger's kinship with the Chronomat is unmistakable. The Avenger is a tool watch through and through, foregrounding legibility and functionality in the field.
Avenger watches also boast high depth ratings. The standard current model is water-resistant to 300 m (30 bar, 984 ft). The Avenger Seawolf, however, is water-resistant to 3,000 m (300 bar, 9,843 ft) – ten times more than the standard Avenger. The Avenger is thus something of a bridge between Breitling's pilot's and diving watches.
Along with chronographs, the Avenger line offers three-hand models and timepieces with a GMT function, as well as a variety of different dial variants. As with all Breitling watches since 2009, the caliber used to power watches in the Avenger collection are chronometer-certified by the COSC. Most of the calibers are modified ETA movements, but some of the more recent Avenger references come with in-house calibers.
Features at a Glance – The Breitling Avenger
- Especially robust, functional pilot's watch
- Top models water-resistant to 3,000 m (300 bar, 9,843 ft)
- Available in sizes from 43 to 50 mm
- Available in stainless steel, DLC-coated titanium, or Breitlings's own synthetic material, Breitlight
- Chronometer-certified in-house caliber or ETA movement
- Three-hand, chronograph, and GMT models available
Breitling Superocean – The Professional Diving Watch
The Superocean and Superocean Heritage are Breitling's diving watch collections. Both lines feature robust, reliable tool watches, perfect for days spent below the waves and evenings at the beach bar.
Anyone interested in owning a diving watch with a modern design should take a look at the Superocean. Inspired by the look of the Superocean Slow Motion from the early 1960s, Breitling translated the design language of that vintage model into modern times and gave the Superocean a facelift in 2022. Watches before the relaunch look much more like timepieces in the Avenger collection.
The Superocean is water-resistant to between 300 m (30 bar, 984 ft) and 2,000 m (200 bar, 6,561 ft), depending on the model. The watches are thus perfectly suitable for professional use.
Features at a Glance – The Breitling Superocean
- Professional diving watch
- Top models water-resistant to 2,000 m (200 bar, 6,561 ft)
- Available in stainless steel or bronze
- Chronometer-certified automatic ETA caliber
Breitling Superocean Heritage – The Retro Diver
Looking for a diving watch with retro charm? Then look no further than the Breitling Superocean Heritage. Breitling's design was strongly inspired by diving watches from the 1950s, a fact that is especially evident with the Superocean Heritage '57. Elements such as the concave (i.e. inward sloping) bezel, round underlying baton indices at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o'clock, and arrow-shaped hour hand can all be found on the original Superocean from 1957.
The Superocean Heritage is available in both three-hand and chronograph editions, and is powered predominantly by automatic in-house calibers. The Superocean Heritage is water-resistant to 200 m (20 bar, 656 ft) – perfectly sufficient for brief excursions into the underwater world.
Features at a Glance – The Breitling Superocean Heritage
- 1950s-style diving watch
- Water-resistant to 200 m (20 bar, 656 ft)
- Available in sizes from 38 to 44 mm
- Available in stainless steel, gold, or two-tone editions
- Chronometer-certified in-house caliber or ETA movement
- Available as a three-hand watch or chronograph
Breitling Endurance Pro – the Outdoor Specialist
Watches in the Endurance Pro line are aimed at fans of the great outdoors. The design of this timepiece is strongly reminiscent of the Avenger. The most striking difference here is the watch's compass bezel and case, which are made from Breitling's own polymer, Breitlight. This material is 3.3 times lighter than titanium, but is just as durable. Breitlight is also anti-magnetic and hypoallergenic.
The watch is fitted with a thermocompensated "SuperQuartz" caliber with a chronograph function. The movement remains unaffected by temperature fluctuations, magnetic fields, and shocks, so it's perfect for rugged outdoor adventures. The timepiece is water-resistant to 100 m (10 bar, 328 ft) and, according to Breitling, the battery lasts 3 to 4 years.
Features at a Glance – The Breitling Endurance Pro
- Robust outdoor chronograph
- 44 mm in diameter
- Made of robust, lightweight Breitlight
- Water-resistant to 100 m (10 bar, 328 ft)
- Thermocompensated SuperQuartz caliber
Breitling Top Time – Racing Chronograph With 60s Flair
Watches in the Top Time collection are sporty, elegant racing chronographs in the style of the 1960s. Along with the classic dial designs from the original Top Time, the line also offers watches with dials that pay homage to classic car and motorcycle brands. The retro look of these timepieces suits both business attire and casual wear.
Features at a Glance – The Breitling Top Time
- Available in sizes from 41 to 42 mm
- Stainless steel case
- Retro chronographs in the style of the 1960s
- Chronometer-certified ETA caliber
Breitling Premier – The Elegant Dress Watch
Even though Breitling is primarily famous for its tool watches, the brand also produces a line of watches for formal occasions. The manufacturer's Premier collection contains classic dress watches. Along with stainless steel, watches in the Premier series are also available in 18-karat gold, and most references come with a chronograph function. Thanks to their in-house calibers, which Breitling developed in cooperation with well-known specialists like Concepto Watch Factors and La Joux-Perret, the timepieces also come with additional complications such as a rattrapante, moon phase display, complete calendar, or tourbillon.
If you'd prefer something simpler, check out the collection's three-hand models, which are equipped with ETA calibers and offer a small seconds or a day-date display, among other functions.
Features at a Glance – The Breitling Premier
- A sporty yet elegant dress watch
- Available in sizes from 40 to 42 mm
- Top models with complications like a rattrapante, tourbillon, or complete calendar
- Chronometer-certified in-house caliber or ETA movement
- Available in stainless steel or gold
About Breitling for Bentley
Breitling and British luxury car manufacturer Bentley enjoyed a close partnership for many years. This cooperation, which lasted from 2002 to 2021, resulted in a number of special editions created in honor of the automaker.
Many of the models feature the trademark "Bentley bezel" inspired by the front grille of the eponymous luxury car. Other models feature a dial made of the same burl wood that Bentley uses for the interiors of their cars. Models made of carbon, which is widely used in the automotive industry, are also part of the Breitling for Bentley collection.
Features at a Glance – The Breitling for Bentley
- Special series in honor of automobile manufacturer Bentley
- Available in sizes from 40 to 49 mm
- Available in stainless steel, titanium, carbon, or gold
The Colt: Breitling's Entry-Level Model
The Colt has many fans among Breitling enthusiasts, in large part due to its comparatively low price. Visually, the Colt shares an aesthetic with watches in the Avenger collection. Inside the timepiece, however, you'll find simple quartz and automatic ETA calibers at work.
Breitling produced the Colt from the mid-1980s until 2020. During this time, the brand released countless models and variants, including three-hand watches, chronographs, and GMT timepieces.
Features at a Glance – The Breitling Colt
- Affordable entry point into the world of Breitling
- Robust, distinctive Breitling design
- Water-resistant to 200 m (200 bar, 656 ft)
- Available in three-hand, chronograph, and GMT editions
- Stainless steel case
How much does a Breitling cost?
You can find Breitling watches on Chrono24 starting at about 550 USD. These are mostly vintage watches from the 1950s or quartz watches from the early 1980s. Timepieces with the characteristic Breitling design, like the quartz-powered Colt Oceane, are available in mint condition from about 1,600 USD. You can buy an automatic Colt from the same era for approximately 2,000 USD.
Current models are noticeably more expensive. The three-hand version of the current Superocean, for example, changes hands for roughly 4,000 USD. The price climbs to just over 6,300 USD for the Superocean Heritage Chronograph. Classic cult chronographs like the Navitimer and Chronomat will set you back anywhere from 7,000 to 38,000 USD, depending on whether it's made of stainless steel or gold.
Which Breitling watch is the most affordable?
The most affordable watch in the current Breitling catalog is the Endurance Pro, which you can buy unworn on Chrono24 for about 2,700 USD (as of early 2023). For another 500 USD, you could own an Aviator 8 Automatic 41 in the standard version with a black dial. Classic Breitling models like the 43-mm three-hand version of the Avenger or the Chronomat 32 ladies' watch come with a similar price tag, approximately 3,300 USD.
How much is the most expensive Breitling?
The most expensive Breitling ever produced is the Breitling for Bentley Flying B, which demands an investment of over 200,000 USD. This is because the watch is "iced out," i.e., completely covered with diamonds, including the dial and bracelet. The Grenchen-based manufacturer produced only 50 of these pieces.
As of early 2023, the most expensive watch in the current Breitling catalog is the Premier B21 Chronograph Tourbillon 42 Willy Breitling, which has an MSRP of 67,000 USD.
Are Breitling watches a good investment?
Breitling watches are considered to be relatively stable investments. Some models have even increased in value in recent years. However, at an average of 3% to 10%, the rate of increase here is significantly lower than that of industry leaders such as Rolex and Patek Philippe, for example.
Prices at a Glance: Breitling Watches
Model, reference number | Price (approx.) | Pre-owned price (approx.) |
Super Chronomat B01 44, RB0136E31Q1R1 | 37,000 USD | 21,000 USD |
Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43, RB0138211B1R1 | 33,000 USD | 31,000 USD |
Navitimer B01 Chronograph 41R, B0139211G1P1 | 16,000 USD | 13,500 USD |
Chronomat B01 44, UB0136251L1S1 | 10,000 USD | 9,400 USD |
Superocean Héritage Chronograph B01 44, AB0162121B1S1 | 6,300 USD | 5,000 USD |
Top Time, A23310121G1X1 | 5,400 USD | 4,300 USD |
Superocean Heritage 42, AB2010121B1A1 | 4,400 USD | 4,000 USD |
Superocean Automatic 42, A17375211B1S1 | 4,000 USD | 3,600 USD |
Avenger Automatic 43, A17318101B1X1 | 3,300 USD | 2,600 USD |
Aviator 8 Automatic 41, A17315101B1X2 | 3,200 USD | 2,500 USD |
Endurance Pro, X82310D91B1S1 | 2,600 USD | 2,200 USD |
Colt Automatic, A17350 | 1,900 USD | 1,500 USD |
Colt Oceane, A77380 | 1,700 USD | 1,600 USD |
Buy New and Pre-Owned Breitling Watches on Chrono24
You'll find over 16,000 Breitling watches listed on Chrono24, ranging from the latest models to the rarest collector's items and vintage references. Prices for watches in mint condition are significantly below the MSRP; you're likely to save an average of 15 to 20% by buying on Chrono24. Plus, your purchase will be secure, thanks to Chrono24's Buyer Protection.
Advantages of Buying on Chrono24
- Vast selection of new and pre-owned Breitling watches
- Prices an average of 15 to 20% below the MSRP
- Shop safely with Chrono24 Buyer Protection
How much is the most expensive Breitling?
The most expensive Breitling ever produced is the Breitling for Bentley Flying B, which demands an investment of over 200,000 USD. This is because the watch is "iced out," i.e., completely covered with diamonds, including the dial and bracelet. The Grenchen-based manufacturer produced only 50 of these pieces.
As of early 2023, the most expensive watch in the current Breitling catalog is the Premier B21 Chronograph Tourbillon 42 Willy Breitling, which has an MSRP of 67,000 USD.
Are Breitling watches a good investment?
Breitling watches are considered to be relatively stable investments. Some models have even increased in value in recent years. However, at an average of 3% to 10%, the rate of increase here is significantly lower than that of industry leaders such as Rolex and Patek Philippe, for example.