Patek Philippe Nautilus

"One of the world's costliest watches is made of steel." That's how Patek Philippe advertised the Nautilus in the 1970s. Today, this luxury sports watch is one of the most sought-after and famous timepieces in the world. Demand is so high that waiting lists at brick-and-mortar retailers are often several years long. Those who don't want to wait can skip the queue and purchase a Nautilus on Chrono24, though at a significant premium.

Despite strong price consolidation since mid-2022, the value of all Nautilus models has increased substantially in recent years. The stainless steel ref. 5711/1A-010 with a blue dial, which was retired along with the rest of the 5711 series in 2021, is particularly popular. In 2015, this timepiece sold for around 25,000 USD, whereas by early 2024, prices had soared to over 134,000 USD. The final stainless steel edition of the Nautilus 5711, the ref. 5711/1A-014 with a green dial, was in production for less than a year. The timepiece has since reached a value of 315,000 USD.

The successor model, ref. 5811/1G-001, was released in October 2022 and is continuing the trend: while the official MSRP for this white gold Nautilus was 70,100 USD, this reference currently changes hands for roughly 174,00 USD.

With all the media attention surrounding the 5711 models, it's easy to forget that the Nautilus collection offers more than simple three-hand watches with a date display. The collection is also home to ladies models set with gems and more complicated timepieces with moon phase displays and chronograph and GMT functions. The Nautilus 5740/1G-001, released in 2018, is the line's flagship model, crafted from white gold and powered by an in-house caliber with a perpetual calendar.

The Patek Philippe Nautilus has evolved into an extensive collection since its debut in the 1970s. Prices also vary widely; current models range from around 43,500 USD for smaller timepieces with quartz movements to several million USD for exceptionally rare variants like the special edition Nautilus 5711 with a Tiffany dial.

The three-hand models from the current collection are highly sought-after, and cost between 164,000 and 435,000 USD. You might be surprised to learn that timepieces with additional complications do not demand much higher sums. In fact, watches from the 5712 series, which feature a moon phase, among other intricate functions, change hands on Chrono24 for roughly 134,000 USD. Even highly complicated models like the Nautilus 5990 Travel Time Chronograph or the ref. 5740/1G with a perpetual calendar are in a similar price range as their counterparts with three hands, from 164,000 to 266,000 USD.

If you're interested in vintage watches, you can find models from the 1980s and 90s for around 65,000 USD. However, if you want a Nautilus 3700 from the early years of production or one of the rare 3711 models, you should expect prices between 147,000 and 293,000 USD.

The Patek Philippe Nautilus has always been one of the most expensive sports watches, especially stainless steel versions. Its official list price is on par with that of gold watches or more complicated timepieces from other manufacturers, and there's good reason for the discrepancy between this model's list price and its market value.

It primarily comes down to demand outpacing Patek's production numbers. Only between 65,000 and 70,000 watches leave the Swiss manufacturer's hallowed halls each year. Most of these timepieces are from the Calatrava and Complications collections, leaving little room for the Nautilus. Only a couple of thousand copies of the latter are produced annually. Waiting lists at brick-and-mortar stores are thus lengthy, and it's become quite common to wait several years before getting your hands on the coveted timepiece. You can skip the queue by turning to the secondary market, but you'll have to reckon with a much higher investment.

The overall price increase seen with watches in the 5711 collection can also be explained by the fact that Patek Philippe discontinued first the stainless steel version and then the entire line. This drove up demand and thus the price of the Nautilus. As of April 2024, the stainless steel ref. 5711/1A-010 with a blue dial cost approximately 135,00 USD.

New 5711 in White Gold

The successor reference 5811/1G-001 in white gold, which was presented in the fall of 2022, cost a good 268,000 USD just a few weeks after its launch. This was around four times the suggested retail price. By the spring of 2024, the situation had calmed down considerably. The Nautilus 5811/1G-001 now demands an investment of only 166,000 USD.

The watch only really differs from its predecessor in its diameter, which is 41 rather than 40 mm. Patek also made a few updates to the bracelet and equipped it with a new clasp. The movement and overall design are the same.

Since Patek shelved the Nautilus 5711/1A, many Nautilus fans have turned to the 5712/1A and 5726/1A as alternatives. The former model is very similar to the 5711, but boasts extra complications, namely a moon phase display, pointer date, small seconds, and power reserve indicator. Patek produces the ref. 5712 in stainless steel, white gold, and rose gold. The steel model is only available on a link bracelet. If you'd prefer a gold version, you can choose between a link bracelet and leather strap. Depending on the version, a Nautilus 5712 will set you back between 133,000 and 218,000 USD on Chrono24.

The ref. 5726/1A is another interesting stainless steel Nautilus model in the Patek catalog. The watchmaker equips this timepiece with the caliber 324 S QA Lu 24H/303, which features an annual calendar, a moon phase, and a 24-hour display. You can purchase the version with a blue dial on a link bracelet for around 132,000 USD, or the variant with a gray dial on a leather strap for about 120,000 USD.

If you're in the market for a Nautilus with a chronograph function, the ref. 5980 is a great choice. The chronograph caliber CH 28-520 C ticking away inside the case offers a flyback function and a shared subdial for the stop minutes and hours at 6 o'clock. The date window is located at 3.

Patek Philippe currently only offers this model in 18-karat rose gold or in a two-tone stainless steel and rose gold design. The stainless steel ref. 5980/1A-001 was taken out of production some time ago, but you can find models on Chrono24 for around 145,000 USD. The rose-gold edition on a matching gold bracelet (ref. 5980/1R-001) can be yours for around 233,00 USD. The gold 5980R-001 on a brown alligator leather strap sells for about 136,000 USD in mint condition. The two-tone version paired with a steel and rose gold bracelet goes for roughly the same price.

2024 Nautilus Chronograph With a Denim Strap

Just in time for the international watch fair Watches and Wonders 2024, Patek Philippe presented a brand-new Nautilus model with the reference number 5980/60G. The watch features a flyback chronograph and a combined hour, seconds, and date display at the 6 o'clock position. At the heart of this version is the in-house caliber CH 28-520 C, which offers a power reserve of approximately 55 hours. The case of the 5980/60G is made of white gold and measures 40.5 mm in diameter. The model comes on a calfskin strap with a blue denim-look textile finish.

As of spring 2024, there was only one listing for the new Nautilus on Chrono24, priced at over 400,000 USD. Only time will tell if prices in this range are realistic. In any case, the official list price is a comparatively low 78,950 USD.

One of the collection's highlights is the Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph ref. 5990 with a stopwatch function and second time zone. The Geneva-based manufacturer presented this complicated watch at Baselworld 2014. The automatic caliber CH 28-520 C FUS is the driving force behind the timepiece. Along with a pointer date and flyback function, the Travel Time Chronograph has a day/night display for both time zones. This feature is necessary because the additional GMT hand for the second time zone works on a 12-hour scale.

Even though it is one of the most complicated models in the collection, prices for the Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph are relatively affordable by Nautilus standards. Launched in 2024, the stainless steel ref. 5990/5990A-011 with the gray-blue dial cost around 156,000 USD in April of the same year. The rose gold edition of the 5990 demands an investment of approximately 285,000 USD – a rather reasonable price for such a highly complicated gold Patek watch.

The series' top model is the Nautilus Perpetual Calendar with the ref. 5740. Thanks to the in-house caliber 240 Q's micro-rotor, this white gold watch is only 8.42 mm thick. This is a millimeter thinner than the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar. The Patek displays the month and leap year at 3, the date and moon phase at 6, and the day at 9 o'clock. The subdial at 9 o'clock also features a 24-hour display. The Nautilus Perpetual Calendar has a list price of 134,840 USD. You could find this complicated, flat luxury watch on Chrono24 for about 253,000 USD in April 2024.

In 2016, Patek Philippe celebrated the 40th anniversary of the Nautilus by releasing two limited editions. You can recognize both watches by the anniversary inscription on the dial and their baguette-cut diamond indices.

The first special edition had a limited run of 700 pieces, making it especially rare. This model is a platinum version of the classic Nautilus with three hands and bears the reference number 5711/1P. In 2016, it had a list price of 113,400 USD. As of April 2024, the watch changes hands on Chrono24 for roughly 520,000 USD in mint condition.

The second model is the Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph ref. 5976/1G. Only 1,300 copies exist of this 44-mm chronograph with a white gold case. At its release, it had a list price of 96,390 USD. Today, this gold chronograph will set you back over 726,000 USD.

Many vintage watch collectors and enthusiasts consider a Patek Philippe Nautilus from the 1970s or 80s their "grail watch." Early pieces bear the reference number 3700 and were produced from 1976 to 1990. Due to their 42-mm cases, these watches earned the nickname "Jumbo." If you're interested in an original Nautilus, plan to spend around 148,000 USD.

The much smaller 37.5-mm Nautilus ref. 3800 debuted in the early 1980s and is significantly more affordable. You can call this model your own for around 56,200 USD. The same timepiece demanded an investment of only 22,000 USD in 2018. It nevertheless remains one of the most affordable Nautilus models on the market.

If 37.5 mm is too small for you, you should take a look at the Nautilus ref. 3710. This 42-mm watch has Roman numerals and a power reserve display on its dial. Patek Philippe introduced the watch in 1998. Prices currently sit at around 81,000 USD.

Ref. 3711 is especially rare and thus appeals to avid collectors. Patek Philippe released this Nautilus in 2005 and discontinued it just one year later. Today, this white gold timepiece changes hands for approximately 292,000 USD.

In 2019, Patek Philippe introduced the 7118 line for women. These 35.2-mm timepieces feature a narrower bezel and have a more delicate, feminine look than their larger counterparts. Patek Philippe offers the 7118 in stainless or rose gold and produces versions with or without diamonds. You can also choose from a golden brown, blue, silver, or gray dial. Each watch is powered by the automatic caliber 324 S C with a central second hand and a date display.

The stainless steel version with a white dial changes hands for roughly 65,000 USD in mint condition. The addition of diamonds to the bezel raises the price tag to around 78,900 USD. The women's Nautilus in 18-karat rose gold demands about 93,000 USD without diamonds and 130,000 USD with diamonds.

The latest addition to the collection is the ref. 7118/1300R-001. The rose gold watch was unveiled in 2022 and has the same inner workings as the other models in the series, but its bezel is adorned with 68 baguette-cut spessartine crystals. Featuring a color gradient from champagne to cognac, the crystals blend beautifully with the gold case's reddish shimmer. Plan to spend roughly 219,000 USD on one of these models.

Quartz Nautilus Models For Women

The ref. 7010 is a great choice for those with more slender wrists. This quartz watch measures 32 mm across and follows in the footsteps of the 7118. The case is crafted from rose gold, and the bezel is decorated with diamonds. You can choose between watches with silver or gold dials, and whether you want to pair it with a leather strap or link bracelet.

Prices for watches on a leather strap start at around 46,500 USD. If you'd prefer to pair it with a gold link bracelet, expect prices closer to 87,500 USD.

When Patek Philippe presented the Nautilus in 1976, the company pushed the boundaries of conventional luxury watches. A sporty, stainless steel watch was completely new for them. The Nautilus was controversial in its first few years, but has since developed into one of the most iconic and sought-after watches of all time. Its design remains largely unchanged even today. It still has an octagonal bezel with rounded edges and a stainless steel bracelet made of satin-brushed and polished links. The porthole design was inspired by the submarine (also called the "Nautilus") in Jules Vernes' famous novel "Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea."

Instead of a classic guilloché, Patek Philippe chose a horizontal relief on the dial, giving the watch a sportier, maritime touch. The luminescent baton indices also contribute to the Nautilus' sporty flair, as do the luminous hands for the hours and minutes.

Gérald Genta was responsible for designing this watch. Genta, who had previously worked for Omega, also designed Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak, which was released in 1972. Genta presented Patek Philippe with his ideas for a steel sports watch in 1974. Two years later, they had finally agreed on the design of the first Nautilus, ref. 3700. Patek only offered classic watches in steel until 1976. Along with the Royal Oak and Nautilus, Genta also designed the IWC Ingenieur ref. 1832 from the late 1970s.

Case Technology and Calibers

Introduced in the mid-1970s, the 42-mm case diameter caused quite a stir and led to the watch's nickname, "Jumbo." At the time, case sizes around 36 mm were the norm. The Nautilus's case construction was also novel, as it comprised two pieces: the bezel and a monocoque body. Usually, manufacturers use a three-piece case construction consisting of the case back, midsection, and bezel. The Nautilus's case only had one hole for the winding stem, and the bezel was pressed on. There was also a seal between the monocoque and the bezel. Together, these elements guaranteed water resistance to 120 m (12 bar, 394 ft).

Patek Philippe used the caliber 28-255 C based on a movement from Jaeger-LeCoultre. At the time, the movement was considered one of the thinnest automatic calibers at 3.15 mm. It also had a date display at 3 o'clock.

Nautilus Variety

Since the early 1980s, there have been many different versions of the Patek Philippe Nautilus released. The model with the reference number 3800, a mid-sized, 37.5-mm wristwatch, is available in solid gold, platinum, or a two-tone mix of steel and gold. When Patek temporarily stopped producing the larger Nautilus in the early 1990s, the 3800 became their only sports watch.

In the mid-1990s, Patek Philippe introduced reference number 5060, a wristwatch made of gold. For the first time, the Nautilus was offered with a leather strap. Its lugs were also new and lent the watch an elegant touch. This watch was the inspiration for Patek's second sports watch, the Aquanaut.

In 1998, Patek Philippe reissued the large Nautilus. The reference number 3710/1A has a power reserve indicator below 12 o'clock and Roman numeral hour markers. In the mid-2000s, this model was also available in 18-karat white gold with a sapphire crystal back.

At the same time, Patek launched the most intricate version of the Nautilus to date. It features a pointer date, power reserve indicator, and moon phase display. The caliber 240 PS IRM C LU powers the watch. Today, these complicated watches are among the most sought-after collector's items. You can find them under the reference number 3712/1A.

In 2006, the Nautilus celebrated its 30th birthday. The company took the opportunity to quietly refine parts of the timepiece. The sides became slightly domed, and the width of the reference number 5711/1A increased slightly to 43 mm (from side to side). Measured diagonally from 10 to 4 o'clock, this watch is 40 mm across.