Hublot

Swiss luxury watch manufacturer Hublot has been making waves with its extraordinary designs, unusual material combinations, and high-end craftsmanship since its founding in 1980. Company founder Carlo Crocco set the tone with his very first collection, which included the world's first gold watch on a rubber strap. This timepiece also introduced the brand's unique and now-iconic bezel, with its prominent screws. Crocco based the watch on a ship's porthole. In fact, the company's name, "Hublot," is French for "porthole."

The fusion of seemingly incongruous materials continues to define the modern collection. For example, Hublot is the only company to produce "Magic Gold," a yellow gold and ceramic alloy. Some watches also feature carbon fiber, sapphire, titanium, textile, or even a kind of concrete.

But their variety of materials isn't the only unusual thing about Hublot: The company also forges its own path in terms of design. Big Bang model, which lives up to its name by featuring case diameters of up to 45 mm, quickly conquered many a watch lover's heart the world over. The Classic Fusion is rather sleek by Hublot standards, while the MP collection could have come from a sci-fi film. The Spirit of Big Bang stands out from the pack with its tonneau-shaped case. Hublot augmented its catalog in 2022 with a line of square watches that the manufacturer has appropriately named the Square Bang.

A look inside these timepieces is proof positive that Hublot has mastered the art of watchmaking. Here you'll find, among other things, in-house movements with bi-axial tourbillons and calibers with up to nine barrels promising over two weeks of power reserve. Watches with chronograph, GMT, and perpetual calendar functions are also part of the Hublot catalog.

Prices for Hublot watches start at approximately 1,000 USD. You'll find classic models with quartz calibers from the 1980s and 90s at this end of the spectrum.

If you want a watch from the current collection, expect to shell out a bit more. Plan to spend about 3,200 USD for a three-hand model from the Classic Fusion line with a quartz movement and stainless steel case. The same watch in titanium with an automatic movement will set you back about 6,500 USD, while a titanium chronograph with an automatic caliber will cost you upwards of 9,000 USD.

Prices for unworn watches from the Big Bang collection start at around 9,500 USD on average, with special models such as the Big Bang Chrono Tourbillon Ferrari going for over 100,000 USD. You'll have to dig even deeper for rarities like the Big Bang Integrated Full Sapphire, which changes hands for roughly 360,000 USD.

Square-shaped Square Bang models range in price from around 19,800 to 46,000 USD, while futuristic watches in the MP series generally cost between 80,000 and 480,000 USD.

Watches in the Big Bang Sang Bleu and Sang Bleu II collections are distinguished by their futuristic design, the brainchild of Swiss designer and tattoo artist Maxime Büchi, famous for his geometric designs. The time is indicated not by normal watch hands, but by a series of stacked polygonal discs.

The first Sang Bleu edition displays only the time, and is available in sizes of 39 and 45 mm. The smaller models come in stainless steel or gold, while the 45-mm Sang Bleu is available in gold, titanium, or ceramic. Both models also come in special pavé editions with diamond-studded cases.

The Sang Bleu II debuted in 2019 and adheres to the design principles of the original Sang Bleu, but is powered by the Unico caliber 1240 and features a flyback chronograph. The case measures 45 mm in diameter and comes in titanium or King Gold. Hublot expanded the selection two years later by adding variants in blue or green ceramic and Magic Gold.

Hublot introduced tonneau-shaped versions of the Sang Bleu in 2024 with the Sapphire and Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu High Jewelry. The latter is available in white gold and King Gold and is liberally studded with diamonds. The Sang Bleu Sapphire – as the name implies – has a sapphire crystal case. The watches measure 42 mm in diameter and are powered by the skeletonized HUB4700 chronograph caliber.

MECA-10 and MP-11: The Manual Big Bang

Unlike other lines within the Big Bang collection, watches in the Big Bang MECA-10 series are fitted with manual calibers. The Meca caliber HUB1201 has a 10-day power reserve and a power reserve indicator at 6 o'clock that lets you know when the watch needs to be wound. The Big Bang MECA-10 is available in ceramic, titanium, King Gold, and Magic Gold versions.

Another particularly interesting Big Bang model is the MP-11. Hublot equips this watch with the in-house manual caliber HUB9011, which boasts an extraordinary 14-day power reserve thanks to its seven series-coupled barrels. The choice of materials includes King Gold, ceramic, carbon fiber, and sapphire crystal. Since 2024, Hublot has also offered the latter in a light blue color called Water Blue.

The Big Bang With a Tourbillon and Other Complications

In 2021, Hublot introduced the Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic, the successor model to the Big Bang Tourbillon Power Reserve 5 Days. The most significant difference between these watches is the movement: The earlier model was powered by the hand-wound caliber HUB6016, and the new variant is equipped with the automatic caliber HUB6035. The movement has a tourbillion at 6 o'clock and a micro-rotor at 12 that provides the watch with its power. The sapphire crystal bridges on this movement provide a clear view of the mechanism inside.

In the spring of 2022, Hublot put their watchmaking skills to the test. Thanks to the manual caliber HUB801, the Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Cathedral Minute Repeater boasts both a tourbillon and a minute repeater, as its name implies. The movement is housed in a ceramic case – a world first for a repeater caliber. Up until now, the material's considerable acoustic properties had precluded it from being used in this way, but Hublot found a means of making the sound ring clearly. The edition is extremely limited to only 18 white and 18 black pieces.

If you think the Big Bang's design is unique, the MP collection is next-level eccentric. The MP-05 watch looks like something straight out of a top-secret laboratory. Known as "LaFerrari," its case is pear-shaped and strongly resembles a race car's engine block. The watch measures 46 mm in diameter and is available in either titanium or sapphire crystal. Instead of hands, the MP-05 utilizes multiple rotating cylinders with numbers on them for its various displays. A power reserve indicator is located on the right, while the hours and minutes are on the left. The seconds display is located below them, and the manual caliber with its vertical tourbillon can be seen in the middle.

The eleven barrels arranged in a row are a particular eye-catcher; normal watches only have one or two barrels. Since the number of barrels determines the duration of the power reserve, the MP-05 only stops after 50 days – a sensational achievement for a wristwatch.

MP-09 and Techframe

The MP-09 is in no way inferior to the other MP models, neither technically nor visually. The bi-axial tourbillon, which breaks through the bezel at 6 o'clock and rotates simultaneously around the vertical and horizontal axes, attracts ample attention. The watch comes in titanium or carbon fiber, and is available in gem-set versions as well.

The Techframe is also a part of the MP collection and was designed by Ferrari's Chief Designer, Flavio Manzoni. This one-pusher chronograph with a tourbillon not only has a skeletonized dial, but also a skeletonized case. Along with titanium and carbon fiber, this timepiece also comes in white gold or shimmering King Gold.

MP-10 With Innovative Winding System

Launched in 2024, the MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System features an innovative winding mechanism. Instead of a conventional rotor, Hublot has equipped the in-house HUB9013 caliber with two weights that move back and forth in a straight line inside the watch. The movement also features a tourbillon with an inclination of 35° and a 48-hour power reserve. The 41.5-mm rectangular case with rounded edges is made of titanium and sapphire crystal. The company has limited this model to just 50 pieces.

The Classic Fusion collection offers more conventional designs than the MP or Big Bang series. Three-hand models with a date display and central second hand come in four sizes: 29, 33, 38, 42, and 45 mm. By Hublot standards, these variants of the Classic Fusion are downright simplistic. Each watch has a distinctive bezel held in place by six decorative screws. Other versions feature a chronograph caliber, moon phase display, or power reserve indicator. The "Ultra-Thin" models use a remarkably flat version of the Classic Fusion case.

The Classic Fusion with a minute repeater and tourbillon likewise features elaborate technology. What's more, this collection offers an assortment of interesting materials. For example, the Italian Independent models have straps and dials made of textiles used in suits, while the Classic Fusion Berluti features leather straps and dials. To celebrate the Classic Fusion's 40th anniversary in 2020, Hublot introduced three especially sleek editions. The most remarkable feature of these 45-mm watches, which come in titanium, yellow gold, or black ceramic, is their dial: Like the 1980 Classic Original, the dial is black and features the brand's logo at 12 o'clock and a date display at 3.

AeroFusion and Orlinski

Two interesting alternatives to the conventional Classic Fusion are the AeroFusion and the Classic Fusion Orlinski. The former is a variant of the Classic Fusion Chronograph with a skeletonized movement and 45-mm case. The AeroFusion comes in King Gold, titanium, or black ceramic, and pavé models with diamond-set cases are also available.

The Classic Fusion Orlinski was designed by French neo-pop artist Richard Orlinski, famous for his multifaceted sculptures. His trademark style is reflected in the dial, case, and band of the Classic Fusion Orlinski. The three-hand edition measures 40 mm in diameter and comes in titanium, King Gold, and various ceramic variants. The latter are available in black, red, and (since 2021) radiant blue. Chronograph models with a 45-mm case are available in red or light blue ceramic.

Limited editions created by Hublot in collaboration with big names from the world of sports and entertainment are real collector's items. Hublot's list of brand ambassadors includes many household names, like Usain Bolt, Novak Djokovic, Kylian Mbappé, Floyd Mayweather, Bar Refaeli, Lang Lang, and Depeche Mode. Each special edition timepiece is a result of close cooperation with the respective celebrity, and some are produced in extremely limited numbers. In the case of the Depeche Mode special edition, you can even support a good cause with your purchase: proceeds go to the "charity: water" project, which, thanks to this collaboration with Hublot, has provided over 30,000 people in Nepal and Ethiopia with clean drinking water. If you'd like to own one of these unique limited-edition watches, you'll need to be prepared to spend between 16,000 and 19,500 USD.

Along with Formula 1 racing, Hublot has a strong foothold in the world of soccer. As a sponsor and Official Timekeeper of the UEFA Champions League, Europa League, European Championship, and FIFA World Cup for many years, Hublot has repeatedly launched models to celebrate special soccer-related events. Recent examples include the Big Bang e FIFA World Cup Qatar 2022 smartwatch and the Big Bang E Gen 3 UEFA Euro 2024.

But Hublot doesn't limit itself to major tournaments: The watchmaker has also partnered with top teams such as Juventus FC, FC Bayern Munich, Chelsea FC, and SL Benfica, and has honored these collaborations with special editions of its watches.

Italian-born Carlo Crocco founded the company, MDM Genève, in 1980. That same year, he introduced the first-ever wristwatch with a natural rubber strap at Baselworld. At the time, "Hublot" was simply the name of one of his MDM models. Crocco had already been developing watches for some time, designing his first timepiece in 1967. In 2004, Jean-Claude Biver, who had previously brought both Blancpain and Omega back from the brink of bankruptcy, became CEO of Hublot, and a year later, Hublot became the recipient a number of awards from the watchmaking industry for their then-new series, the Big Bang. In 2008, Hublot joined the ranks of TAG Heuer, Zenith, and Bulgari when Carlo Crocco sold the company to luxury goods group LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton S.A.

Ricardo Guadalupe has been at the helm of Hublot since 2012, while Biver continues to serve as chairman of the board. The two had previously worked together at Blancpain.