One of the reasons luxury watches have gained notoriety in recent years is the impressive value retention of certain models. Part of what makes this hobby so interesting is the fact that if you buy certain luxury timepieces, their value will remain stable or perhaps even appreciate! That’s a good thing; after all, you work hard for your money.
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional
The Speedmaster is one of those few watches that is also known outside the watch world. It was the first watch on the Moon in 1969, which is how it earned the “Moonwatch” moniker. This gives the watch an impressive, one-of-a-kind history. Anyone who had a TV at the time would have seen the Moonwatch on the astronauts’ wrists during the Moon landing, or during NASA’s numerous other missions.
It should come as no surprise that the Speedmaster is a solid and robust watch, especially considering it has withstood the extreme conditions of space. That aside, it also makes a great everyday watch. Despite its 42-mm diameter, it measures just 45 mm lug to lug, making it a pleasant size overall that suits just about any wrist.
Despite some minor drawbacks, such as water resistance to just 5 bar (50 m, 164 ft) and the need to wind the watch by hand at least every 48 hours, the Omega Seamaster Moonwatch Professional is an absolute must-have in every watch collection.
Cartier Santos-Dumont
The second watch on our list also has a rich history, as it is part of the seasoned and extensive Santos collection from the Parisian jewelry and watch label Cartier. The Cartier Santos is considered the first men’s wristwatch and pilot’s watch. It was commissioned by the Brazilian aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont, who gave the model his name. His wish for a practical way to read the time while flying was realized by his good friend Louis-François Cartier. The Cartier Santos replaced the pocket watches that had previously been used in the cockpit, and eventually found its way onto the wrists of Cartier’s wealthy clientele.
Today, the Santos series is divided into the Cartier Santos de Cartier and the Cartier Santos-Dumont lines. The latter was introduced in 2004 and comes closest to the historical original from 1904. Like every Santos watch, the Cartier Santos-Dumont boasts a timelessly elegant and tidy design: The square Art Deco dial comes with Cartier-typical Roman numerals and a railway minute track on the outer edge of the dial. A screw-down bezel and cabochon crown are also present here, giving the timepiece a classic Cartier look. This is all rounded off by a crocodile leather strap, which gives the watch an elegant touch compared to the Santos de Cartier on a steel bracelet. Now to the question of price: A model like the ref. WSSA0022 with a steel case and quartz movement is available in the largest variant (43 mm) from around $7,000 – you can even find listings on the Chrono24 marketplace for significantly less. A look at its performance in the Chrono24 Watch Collection reveals that the model has been steadily appreciating since 2019 and has been quite stable in value for several years now.
Tudor Black Bay 58
The Black Bay 58 may have been the watch that the world was waiting for. With the release of the first Black Bay in 2012, Tudor could have hit it big. However, despite its undeniable popularity, it had – quite literally – a huge shortcoming for many potential buyers: The watch was quite thick and chunky, which discouraged some fans despite the watch’s other appealing design features.
The diameter of the watch is 39 mm instead of 41 mm. Instead of a 50 mm lug-to-lug, it measures 47 mm, and instead of a hefty 14.8 mm thick, the height is now only 11.8 mm. This makes the watch nearly the slimmest Black Bay in the range and suitable for almost any wrist. 200 m (656 ft) of water resistance and an in-house Tudor movement with a generous 70-hour power reserve round out the overall package.
The great design and appealing overall package mean this watch is very popular. It is one of the few non-Rolex watches that trades slightly above its official list price.
What makes a watch retain its value?
It doesn’t always have to be a Rolex, an Audemars Piguet, or a Patek Philippe. A watch typically enjoys price stability if it’s particularly popular or respected in the watch world. But the three watches presented here clearly show that it’s not just the brand name that counts. A watch earns cult status primarily through its eventful history, innovation, or simply by demonstrating great value for money, coupled with a timeless design.
