Rolex is one of the most famous brands in the world. Its name is synonymous with luxury watches, so is it any wonder that timepieces from the Geneva-based watchmaker are so sought after? And it’s not just the latest models that make the eyes of watch enthusiasts sparkle. Vintage Rolexes are becoming increasingly popular, and not just among collectors. Watches from bygone eras exude a special charm, tell stories, and have a patina that people simply love. Many of these watches have also become increasingly rare over the years, which lends vintage Rolex timepieces additional prestige. There are however a few things to consider when buying a vintage Rolex. Today we’re showing you how to choose the right vintage watch, and giving you tips on what to buy.
- When is a watch considered “vintage?”
- Interesting Rolex Models
- Tips on Buying Vintage Watches
- Where can I buy a vintage watch?
- Value Retention
When is a watch considered “vintage?”
Unlike classic cars, there’s no precise definition for watches regarding when they can be considered vintage. For many years, a watch had to be at least 25 years old to be considered vintage. From today’s perspective, however, this now includes watches from the late 1990s and early 2000s, something that doesn’t seem quite right to many enthusiasts. In recent years, the following has become standard practice: Any watch older than 100 years is considered antique. Watches produced in the 1980s and before are considered vintage. A watch produced between 1990 and 2010 falls into the neo-vintage category.
Interesting Rolex Models From Days Gone By
On the Chrono24 marketplace, you’ll find countless Rolex watches that the Swiss company no longer manufactures. Read on to discover some interesting models.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Ref. 1003
The elegant Oyster Perpetual ref. 1003 is a relatively affordable vintage Rolex watch option. This timepiece from the 1960s has a 34-mm stainless steel case, making it the ideal unisex watch. Its silver-white dial features applied bar indices, and the highlight of this watch is its so-called engine-turned bezel, with fine fluting alternating between twelve smooth markers.
The heart of this watch is the caliber 1560, featuring a power reserve of 42 hours. Like most Rolex movements, the 1560 is also certified as a “superlative chronometer” that delivers outstanding accuracy. You can buy this Rolex Oyster Perpetual in good condition on Chrono24 for around $3,500.
Rolex Datejust Ref. 16013
If you’re looking for a timepiece that embodies the flair of the 1980s like no other, then the two-tone Rolex Datejust 16013 is just the watch for you. Its 36-mm stainless steel case has a fluted yellow gold bezel. The crown and the middle links of the Jubilee bracelet are also made of gold. Its 80s look is perfected with a champagne-colored dial. You can also opt for white- or black-dial versions. Inside the watch ticks the chronometer-certified automatic caliber 3035, which Rolex produced from 1977 to 1988. The movement offers a date display and 42 hours of power reserve when fully wound.
Depending on the dial color and condition of the watch you select, a Rolex Datejust 16013 will run you between $5,200 and $6,300.
Rolex Daytona Paul Newman Ref. 6239
Whenever watch enthusiasts think of popular vintage Rolex Daytona models, the first one that probably comes to mind is the Rolex Daytona Paul Newman ref. 6239 with the “Exotic Dial.” These timepieces feature tricolor dials, making them much more colorful than the original black or silver-white Daytona dials. Originally considered a flop at the time of release, Rolex discontinued production of the Paul Newman models after only a few years, making them quite rare. The Paul Newman name has done the rest to make this classic one of the most popular vintage watches in the world. The watch got a further boost in notoriety after one from the Hollywood star’s personal watch collection was auctioned off for $17.8 million in 2017. Have at least $250,000 on hand for a Daytona 6239 with an Exotic Dial in good condition. You can also opt for a model with a white or black dial. Prices here range from $61,000 to $69,000.
Rolex Submariner Ref. 6538 “Big Crown”
What would a list of coveted vintage Rolex watches be without a Submariner? While the selection of interesting references here is vast, our choice fell to the Rolex Submariner ref. 6538 “Big Crown,” the watch that Sean Connery wore in a number of James Bond films. The timepieces seen on Connery’s wrist in Dr. No, From Russia With Love, and Goldfinger are even thought to have been from his personal collection. This of course isn’t the only watch associated with James Bond. Readmore about other famous James Bond watches in this article.
The Rolex Submariner ref. 6538 was launched in 1956 together with the Submariner ref. 6536. The main difference between the two models is the slightly larger crown on the ref. 6538, which gives this watch considerably more character. Rolex produced two versions of the ref. 6538, which are easy to tell apart. The first “two-liner” version features two lines of text above the 6 o’clock position, while the second version has four. Fun fact: the “four-liner” was the first Rolex Submariner with a chronometer-certified movement. Rolex produced these two ref. 6538 variants with both “hash” and “no-hash” bezels. The former features minute markers between 12 and 3 o’clock positions, while the latter does not. Prices for the “Big Crown” Submariner ref. 6538 start at around $65,000 and climb to well over $200,000 for particularly well-preserved specimens.
Rolex GMT-Master Ref. 6542
We’re sticking with Bond flicks for our next watch. The Rolex GMT-Master ref. 6542 was the first of the coveted red and blue-bezel GMT-Masters. In Goldfinger, Bond girl Honor Blackman wore this watch in her role as Pussy Galore. At the time, it was pretty unusual for women to wear wristwatches that big. The fact that she played Goldfinger’s personal pilot makes everything about this watch even cooler, especially considering that the Rolex GMT-Master was designed to allow pilots to read the time in two time zones simultaneously. The Rolex GMT-Master ref. 6542 is an absolute Rolex classic. Its red and blue color scheme bezel is still the standard when it comes to GMT watches today. By the way, the Bakelite bezel used back then was one of the weakest points of the watch, as the material was known to break easily, which is why it’s so hard to find well-maintained Rolex ref. 6542 models. Plan to spend at least $50,000 on one in acceptable condition.
Other Popular Vintage Rolex Models
| Model, ref. no. | Features | Price (approx.) |
| Day-Date, 18039B | “Tridor,” 36 mm, yellow, white, and rose gold, President bracelet | $16,600 |
| Explorer II, 1655 | “Steve McQueen,” 40 mm, steel, Oyster bracelet, fixed 24-hour bezel, second time zone | $27,600 |
| King Midas, 3580 | “ΜΙΔΑΣ” lettering on dial, 27 mm, yellow gold, hand-wound, Gérald Genta design | $29,000 |
| Datejust Oysterquartz, 5100 | “Texano,” 39 mm, white or yellow gold, Beta 21 quartz movement, edgy 70s design | $32,300 |
| Submariner, 16800 | “Comex” logo on dial, 40 mm, steel, Oyster bracelet, Date or No Date version | $116,000 |
Tips on Buying Vintage Watches
If you’re in the market for a genuine vintage Rolex, consider these tips before you buy to avoid any pitfalls or unpleasant surprises.
- The seller’s reputation: Find out about the seller before you buy. If it’s a dealer, ask other watch enthusiasts about their experiences buying from them. Online watch forums can be helpful. If you’re buying from a private individual, make sure that the watch is inspected by a fully qualified watchmaker prior to purchase. Buying on an online marketplace? Be sure to check out services like Chrono24’s Certified program.
- Do your homework: Before you buy, learn more about the exact model you’re looking at: From the reference number to the number of pieces produced, the movement used, and the special features of the timepiece, the more you know about your dream watch, the more likely you are to spot any discrepancies. This can really help prevent you from making an expensive mistake.
- Information on service history: Similar to the service history of a used car, the service records of a watch provide information about past servicing and what if any repairs have been performed on the watch. Regular servicing by an authorized watchmaker is always a good sign. You can also see if the watch is still in its original condition or if parts have been replaced, which can have a significant impact on the price.
- Where is the watch from? Look for genuine proof of origin. This can be verified through invoices with the correct serial number, original stamped documents, or the watch’s warranty certificate.
- Trust your gut: If an offer seems too good to be true, it probably is. If this feeling persists after you have thoroughly examined the watch and its papers, don’t buy it.
Where can I buy a vintage watch?
There are a number of ways to buy a vintage Rolex. One way is through brick-and-mortar retail. The advantage here is that you have a salesperson on site and can inspect the watch before you buy it. Disadvantage: high prices and limited selection. You’ll find something different on marketplaces like Chrono24, where countless professional dealers and private individuals offer their watches for sale. There’s truly something for everyone. Safe purchase is guaranteed thanks to secure payment methods and a certification service.
Although well-known auction houses are another way to get your hands on the vintage Rolex of your dreams, keep in mind that the sale price can increase significantly due to other bidders and interested parties. You’ll also have to pay a commission fee to the auction house on top of the selling price. While vintage watches are often offered at watch shows, in online forums, and on social media, it’s important to exercise caution when buying through these avenues. Anyone can offer anything, so don’t be fooled by high-resolution photos or people’s word alone.
Value Retention
Rolex watches generally hold their value very well, with prices rarely falling. Discontinued models often increase in value over time and command premium prices on the secondary market and among collectors. Vintage Rolex watches can be considered a rewarding investment.
Summary
Ultimately, it’s up to you to decide which Rolex model you want to buy and where. Now that we’ve shown you the best things to look for when buying a watch and explained what a vintage watch is, perhaps you have a clearer understanding of the fascination behind classic Rolex models. All that remains is for you to enjoy the hunt. We hope you find a fantastic vintage timepiece that you’ll love wearing.
