For every person who says Rolex is the best brand in the world, there’s another person who finds them boring. As the bestselling luxury watch brand in the world, they certainly have a target on their backs. Maybe you don’t want to pay a premium for a Rolex, or maybe you respect them but just aren’t that drawn to them. So, our challenge for today is to match the major Rolex models with their most worthy competitors.
This list will naturally not include every watch worth mentioning, so if there is a favorite of yours, a formidable contender that should’ve gotten the spotlight, please shout it out in a comment below.
Rolex Datejust
We’re starting off with the Rolex Datejust. For many, it’s the go anywhere, do anything watch that can go from the office to the beach and back again. That versatility is what we’re looking for in the number one alternative.
Grand Seiko comes to mind, and they’ve been called the Rolex of the East more than once. The craftsmanship here is spectacular, and thanks to Tanaka’s Grammar of Design, there’s lots of angular detail to sink your teeth into. The Heritage Collection is perhaps the most popular example of this with intricate dials based on the seasons. These watches are a few seconds less accurate than a Rolex and the power reserve indicators are not everyone’s favorite. But in terms of details per dollar and overall aesthetics, I’d give Grand Seiko the edge.
Another watch commonly cited as a worthy alternative is the Cartier Santos. The Santos is known for its blend of brutalist case and bracelet architecture with its classically elegant Cartier dial. This is perhaps a preferred option if you lean more towards dress watches than all out sport watches. However, the newer versions of the Santos feature luminous hands and hour markers and 100m of water resistance. The movement is nothing to brag about, but again, the Santos is arguably the better looking watch.
Finally, there is the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra. You get the sportiness, you get the elegance, you get the versatility that you’re after, and there’s the Master Chronometer certified movement thanks to the proprietary Co-Axial escapement. The dial is more symmetrical than the Datejust, and the details like the hands, hour markers, and twisted lugs can certainly be seen as an advantage.
Rolex Submariner
Next up is the Rolex Submariner. The qualities we’re looking for here are a time-tested dive watch that can take a beating. Two brands come to mind: Omega and Tudor.
Now, I want to mention the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms because it’s arguably the world’s first dive watch, and because the design can be quite compelling, but the Milspec versions are too expensive to include here, and the version that is comparably priced is with its 45mm too large for the vast majority of people.
That brings us to the Omega Seamaster family. If you’re a James Bond fan, you know that 007 wore both a Rolex Submariner and an Omega Seamaster. You may also have an affinity for variations like the Seamaster 300, the Diver 300M, or the Planet Ocean which each have their advantages. Regardless of your choice, you get the build quality you’d expect from a brand like Omega, and with the 300, you get military heritage and a mid-century design that has proved to be thoroughly handsome for decades. If the Submariner has been your dream since you were a kid, then go for that honestly, but if you’re looking for value for money, I’d say Omega takes the cake here.
This brings us to Tudor. Of course, people will instantly point out that Tudor is a down-market subsidiary of Rolex and therefore can’t compete in the same league. But if you’re a sports watch enthusiast who uses the watches as intended, you may have a differing opinion.
It’s starting to become a cliche to say that Tudor now is what Rolex used to be. But all cliches are born from truth. The Black Bay line has been a fan favorite since it launched, and the Black Bay 58 has only cemented that reputation. It may have even kept some satisfied customers from later purchasing a Submariner. Maybe.
For the Pelagos, the appeal is in the specs as well as the perception. Coming in at 39 and 42mm with a titanium case, the Pelagos is quite comfortable and fits a wider range of wrists. You’ve got strong lume, great bezel action, and more than enough water resistance for the average diver, who let’s be honest, are few and far between. And now that the Submariner is steadily moving into luxury territory, there are watch fans who long for the old days of Rolex when tool watches were tool watches, and that works in the favor of the Tudor Pelagos.
Rolex GMT-Master II
When it comes to the Rolex GMT-Master II, the task is a little tougher, although maybe there’s a watch I’m missing. The main competitor here comes from the Grand Seiko SBGJ237 and 239 for the simple reason that you can simultaneously track three time zones instead of two. That’s thanks to the rotating bezel combined with the internal 24-hour ring. If you’re into tool watches, then this plain and simply offers you more tools to work with.
You of course have GMT options from brands like Omega, Tudor, JLC, and others, but perhaps the toughest competition comes from the adjacent category of world timer watches. These offer similar functionality as a GMT but in an even more cosmopolitan package. Key competitors in this rough price range come from Omega with the Seamaster Aqua Terra World Time, The IWC Pilot World Timer, and the JLC Polaris World Timer.
You of course also have watches that combine a chronograph with a GMT or world time function, but realistically these might be a bit of a stretch for a true GMT competitor. Again, the GMT category seems to lean in favor of Rolex, but drop a comment if there’s another one worth mentioning.
Rolex Milgauss
Next, let’s look at a watch that dares to be a little different. It seems a little odd that the Rolex specifically designed for scientists has perhaps the most counterculture feel of the bunch. When I think of the Milgauss and the people that are drawn to it, I think of people that want a daily driver watch that’s outside of the norm.
For that, we’ve got a few Omegas that come to mind. The most direct competitor is the Omega 15,000 Gauss. It’s also designed to resist magnetic interference, although that’s not a realistic concern for the vast majority of people, especially considering that most modern sport watches offer more than enough protection from day-to-day magnetic encounters. Visually, this watch is a good match thanks to the yellow accents and this bumble-bee like seconds hand. It’s similar to the Milgauss in terms of size, material, and performance, and I wish you’d see more of these Omegas on the street and at watch meetups.
Also from Omega, you could definitely consider the Seamaster Aqua Terra in a more expressive dial color. You’ve got quite the range of colors (and sizes) to choose from, so you can get more personal with your selection. I’d personally go for the Summer Blue edition.
Finally, from Omega, you’ve got the Railmaster. It shares similar scientific origins as the Milgauss, and that striking broad arrow hour hand of the trilogy version gives it some much appreciated visual punch. There are, of course, more subtle versions of the Railmaster if you prefer.
Lastly, not from Omega, it’s the IWC Ingenieur. This watch is another model that’s graduated from the sciences to the mainstream and recently got an update in 2023. You have the Gérald Genta heritage, you have the integrated bracelet design, and you even have eye catching colors like the textured teal dial variation. It’s also worth mentioning that for the price of a Milgauss, you could get a solid gold IWC Ingenieur perpetual calendar. Which, if we’re talking about value for money, is pretty undeniable.
Your feeling is not wrong – there are still a few important Rolex models missing. We haven’t forgotten them, of course, but where would the suspense be if I were to reveal them all at once? So stay tuned and look forward to the second part of this article, when we take a look at Rolex models such as the Day-Date and the Explorer, including their alternatives!
