As the first watch fair after the long summer break begins, 53 brands are set to unveil their latest collections. Most exhibitors present their watches in suites at the Hotel Beau Rivage, offering stunning views of the Jet d’Eau fountain on Lake Geneva, while others showcase their novelties from their boutiques on Rue du Rhône.
While it’s impossible to cover all the brands, I have a few personal favorites that I hope will introduce updates such as smaller case diameters, revamped models, and new materials. Of course, this is just speculation, and we’ll see what surprises Geneva Watch Days has in store when it kicks off on August 28th.
Glashütte Original
I have been an admirer of the Glashütte Original PanoInverse collection for many years. Reversing the movement and displaying the beautifully decorated swan neck regulator from the front adds uniqueness and acts as a fascinator.
Introduced in several iterations, with date, automatic, and manual wind movements, the PanoInverse has a diameter of 42 mm. Considering the trend towards smaller watches, the PanoInverse collection would undoubtedly benefit from a smaller size, i.e., 39 mm.
Of course, this would mean that the movement needs to be modified, as the position of the swan neck regulator and vital components and complications would have to be reworked. I am confident, however, that the talented engineers and watchmakers at Glashütte Original would find a solution to slim down and come up with a new generation of the PanoInverse that is just as attractive and fascinating as the 42 mm versions.
Breguet
Glashütte Original is not the only Swatch Group brand showing news during Geneva Watch Week. Breguet will also open its doors at its boutique on Rue du Rhône and will display its latest creations.
Since the death of Nick Hayek Sr. in 2010, Breguet has lived somewhat in the shadows. However, with the rising interest in neo-vintage timepieces, Breguet has regained some well-deserved attention. Breguet is all about attention to detail, craftsmanship, and dials to die for.
The dials are made of gold and silvered after they have received handmade guilloche—a traditional craft that underlines Breguet’s approach to modern-day watchmaking. The founder, Abraham-Louis Breguet, would be pleased to see that his decorative ideas are still very much used by the Swatch Group-owned manufacturer. And let’s never forget that Abraham-Louis was not only the inventor of the tourbillon but also pioneered the pare-chute shock protection and was credited for the invention of the Breguet overcoil balance spring.
On a personal note, I am a longtime fan of the Breguet Tradition line, with its open-worked design inspired by the legendary souscription watch. If I could choose the perfect Breguet Tradition, it would be in a polished titanium Grade 5 case with a diameter of 38 mm. In other words, it would be a lightweight hard-hitter on the wrist.
Laurent Ferrier
Laurent Ferrier is one of my favorite watch brands. It is one of the most interesting independent manufacturers and a relatively young one, founded by the namesake in 2010. Inspired by victories in his Porsche, the Sport Auto with the integrated bracelet is eye candy and feather-light on the wrist due to the use of titanium.
Water-resistant to 120 meters, the Sport Auto is the watch you can wear on any occasion—whether diving into the ocean or enjoying a five-course dinner at a fine restaurant. However, at 41.5 mm, the watch could benefit from a younger brother with lesser heft. Perhaps Laurent Ferrier, alongside his watchmaking son Christian Ferrier, would consider a dressier version with a slimmer case profile.
This would be possible with a manual wind movement. I know that the Sport Auto is fitted with a micro-rotor that does not fatten the LF 270.01 calibre as the rotor is depressed into the movement. If a manual wind movement is chosen for a 39 mm version, the Sport Auto would need a renaming.
The current height of the Sport Auto is 12.70 mm, but if Laurent Ferrier would fit the manual wind calibre LF126.01, it would have a height of only 5.80 mm, and I am sure the size of that particular movement would slim down the Sport Auto to a diameter of 39 mm.
Favre Leuba
It has been a while since I wore a Favre Leuba on my wrist, and its recent dormant position explains this. This year, however, the brand has been reawakened and has industry veteran Patrik Hoffmann at the helm. Patrik is a very experienced leader who was previously at the helm of Ulysse Nardin and Watch Box in Switzerland.
One of the oldest watch brands—founder Abraham Favre was mentioned as an independent watchmaker in 1737—Favre Leuba benefits from a long history of great watches. Favre Leuba will show its capabilities and what’s up its sleeves during Geneva Watch Days, and on a personal note, I’d like the brand to stay in its adventurous genre, making watches that fit an active lifestyle.
